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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.